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DIARY
Stuart
Reid To Paris to attend a convivium on
the Continuing Revolution, presided over by Dr Thomas Fleming. Dr
Who? Tom Fleming is editor of the monthly magazine Chronicles, based
in Rockford, Illinois, and big chief of the palaeoconservative
movement — though movement may be too grand a word to describe an
engagingly barmy political army that has perhaps 20,000 followers in
the US and fewer than 20 here. The reactionary and pacific — but not
pacifist — palaeoconservatives (palaeos) are the sworn enemies of
the hawkish and progressive neoconservatives (neocons). Shortly
after Jacques Chirac declared that he would not support an American
war against Iraq, Fleming wrote, ‘I respect and admire the French,
who have been a far greater nation than we shall ever be, that is,
if greatness means anything loftier than money and bombs.’ There was
a fearful commotion. Such talk is considered treason by neocons,
some of whom believe that enthusiasm for France makes one a Nazi
sympathiser.
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‘It was a friendly liar
incident.’ | Palaeos are losers, at least politically, which
is what makes them so attractive. They do not share the popular
prejudices of the American Street. They recognise the dangers of
militant Islam, but do not believe that bombing Arab women and
children is the answer to the problem. They are pro-life and
pro-death penalty. They are anti-big business and anti-big
government. There is no party line, however; no ideology. These
people keep you guessing. Some palaeos admire Tariq Ali, Alex
Cockburn, Robert Fisk, Gore Vidal and Joseph de Maistre, Patrick
Buchanan and Taki; others detest Fisk and Ali, and are not crazy
about de Maistre or Taki. All, however, are against wars of liberal
imperialism, and consequently have a low opinion of Christopher
Hitchens, Tony Blair, Richard Perle, Donald Rumsfeld, Geoff Hoon —
and most of the right-wing columnists in Great Britain and the
United States. They do not subscribe to the view of the
family-values press that the Sixties were uniquely decadent. They
think that the Fifties — to the neocons a golden age of Eisenhower
and Norman Rockwell — were also a cultural and political calamity.
But palaeos take the long view. They see the big picture. The root
causes of the Continuing Revolution emerged long before the 20th
century; indeed long before 1789. A recent issue of Chronicles
carried the cover line: TURN LEFT AT THE RENAISSANCE.
Get the idea? These are not people you’d want to
introduce to your social worker, but they are good company. At
dinner on the first evening I knew I was in the right place when a
delightful woman to my right, reflecting on her youthful innocence,
said, ‘Why, I did not know what a homosexual was until I got
married.’ Later, as we drank and smoked in our hotel, a loony
grinned and capered outside the window of the bar — no doubt seeing
the joke more clearly than we did. A toast to France was proposed by
one of our number. ‘Vive la France!’ we cried. I was among fiercely
patriotic Americans, but it was left to me to add, ‘And God bless
America.’
Is Paris a little overrated? Greatest city
in the world and all that, but the Seine end of the Boulevard
St-Michel is just like Leicester Square, and how many times can you
walk past Shakespeare and Company, all higgledy-piggledy and coy,
without wanting to throw a copy of Ulysses through its window? If
there is one thing more kitsch than the exterior of the Sacré Coeur,
it is the interior of Notre Dame, where the confessionals are glass
boxes in which penitents seem to be negotiating bank loans with
cross-dressed ledger clerks. St Sulpice may have its Delacroix
murals, but there is something irredeemably naff about the place,
with its participatory liturgy and Taizé-inspired choir. A year ago,
I saw a priest there pick his nose while reciting the canon and
crumble the snot on to the altar cloth. This is my bogey. If Henry
IV had been alive today, he might have thought Paris worth a miss.
Give me Rome or New York — even London — any day.
My French
is so poor that I am reluctant to try to compliment a woman in case
I proposition her by mistake. If my language skills were better, I
might have got myself temporary accreditation at the Cannes film
festival after leaving Paris for the Côte d’Azur, but the woman in
the press tent said, ‘It does not exist.’ I pointed out that there
was a notice over a desk saying ‘TEMPORARY ACCREDITATION’. That,
apparently, was for people who’d applied for temporary status in
March. So I nosed about. Cannes was hot and tacky. Off the beach
huge motor yachts stood at anchor, quietly polluting the bay. Loud
music — easy-listening classical or sentimental French pop — played
from speakers, and there were posters everywhere for violent or
coarse films, most of them American. (The French love America.) Old
men with tits sunbathed on the promenade. With the exception of the
two paraplegics gamely wheeling themselves about, I seemed to be
surrounded by the ‘assorted “stylists”, hairdressers and gossip
columnists’ denounced so eloquently in this space last week by Miss
Joan Collins. Give me Nice any day. (But I think I saw Tim Robbins.)
Love is in the air. The other evening, in the bath,
I found myself listening to a sex show on the radio. A man
representing Mates condoms was talking about safe sex and urging
listeners to check out the Mates website: www.ishaggedhere.com. I am
told by my youth adviser, Mary Wakefield, that the site is being
advertised everywhere. It has a link for those who want to get in
touch with former one-night stands. Here’s a typical posting: ‘The
wood. Michelle you were the best, any chance of you being tied to
that tree again x.’ Two things are distressing about this (at any
rate to prurient humbugs like me): one is the smirking
self-righteousness of the men from Mates; the other is that there is
no such thing as safe sex, even within a disease-free marriage, and
it is cruel to children to pretend that there is.
History today: four young Kiwis were on the Tube
discussing their recent adventures on the Continent. One said: ‘And
we went to a concentration camp, din’ we?’ Another said: ‘Yih. What
was it called?’ Someone else: ‘Dachau, wasn’t it?’ Someone else:
‘Nah, Cracow.’ Someone else: ‘Nah, Dachau.’ First person: ‘Oh yih,
Dachau.’ Whatever. With this level of general knowledge, our
democratically elected leaders will have no trouble in selling the
next war against the next new Hitler.
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